OK, here's the deal (sorry, long post)...

My 1985 SR5 2WD 22RE 2.4 pickup's fuel pump is dead/seized up, and I think this may be all that is wrong with it (ie, why it doesn't start). It has been stored for 8 years and it's time to put it back on the road. I've tested the pump out of the tank and it does not run, but it gets hot hot hot. There is full battery voltage at the external pump connector. However, there are a few other issues I'd like to clear up before I start buying pumps, regulators, relays, etc, etc, etc.


Here's what I have tested so far:

The 'Circuit Opening Relay' is operational and delivers full voltage to the fuel pump connector when the engine is cranked. In addition, when the 'Fuel Pump Check Connector' is bridged, power is delivered to the fuel pump connector when the ignition key is in the 'on' position. I will assume the relay is good.

The fuel line from the fuel rail to the tank is clear and the filter is good/new.

The engine starts/runs when starter fluid is injected into the intake port (butterfly open of course).

There is power at the injectors and cold start injector when called for.



What I have not tested:

The 'fuel pressure regulator': Is there a way to test it without a fuel pump? :D

If the injectors or cold start injector delivers fuel to the intake manifold.




The other problem:

The fuel pump bracket has a few issues, and it's best to show an image to point them out properly.


(IMG:http://d30.info/offsite/examples/sr5fuelpump_thm.jpg)

Click link for a full sized image: http://d30.info/offsite/examples/sr5fuelpump_5.jpg

There are a lot of questions below, but I would appreciate any information that can be provided as my truck is currently under an abatement order for being stored in my driveway and I have just a few days to fix it, or hide it from them :D


Looking at the numbered images from 1 through 9...


1) The bracket has some corrosion (water vapor related) and there are a few riveted wire connections for the negative and positive wires/terminals. All of these are tight and show zero ohms between the terminals and ground/power, so I assume they should be OK. Is this a safe assumption? The fuel pump bracket is ~216.00 US if they can find one for me. I'd rather not replace it unless it's absolutely necessary.

2)I measured .9 ohms across the pump terminals and .3 ohms across the resistor? (more further down)... I have no idea if this is correct of not. Since the pump is dead I don't know if it's shorted or just seized up.

3 & 4) The rubber bushing is now jelly. I have seen mention of part number 23249-43080 various places on the net but no place to buy it. I assume this is a Toyota only part? Anyone know if it's readily available and how much it is? Yeah, I know... Call Toyota, but if someone just happens to know :D

Do all fuel pumps need this part or something similar? Since the current bumper is jelly, it's had to tell how the pump is held in place. Is it nothing more than pressure against the bumber provided buy the short piece of rubber fuel hose and clamps?

5) The return line is plugged with what looks like carbon. I haven't rodded it out yet, but is the carbon a sign of other problems in the fuel return system?

6) The positive wire is losing insulation and I don't want a short in the tank for obvious reasons. I would assume it is acceptable to replace the wire and solder them to the terminals (not while near the tank of course). Has anyone done this? Can anyone suggest a brand/grade of wire for this purpose(Teflon?)? Can the wire be coated wire silicone seal (M-i-c---k-e-y---M-o-u-s-e), maybe Teflon spaghetti.

7 & 8) This appears to be a resistive device with a value of .3 ohms. Under test, the pump receives 7-8 VDC. Yes, it's dead, but is there this much voltage drop to a properly running pump? Is .3 ohms the correct value? Is this merly a resistor? Do these go bad often? Should I just not worry about it?

9) The outside cover of the resistive device appears to do little more than keep debris from entering the tank. Is this correct? It has a few cracks in it and I will seal it with silicone seal if this is all it does. Do the cracks indicate damage to the device, or just old plastic?


Well, if the above wasn't enough, I have a few more questions for any Toyota gurus out there.

There are several fuel pumps available on the net from ~59.00 to over 300.00. Most of the brands I know Denso, Carter, Airtex, Beck Arnley, etc. are 130.00 or more, but there is one that appears on several parts sites (some of which have different names and prices but are the same site) and is from 60.00 to 80.00. Here's a link:

http://www.partstrain.com/ShopByDepartment...p/TOYOTA/PICKUP

Scroll down a bit and it's the first one. Has anyone used this? Am I just buying more problems.

Locally (Kragen and AutoZone) I have a choice of Carter (199.00) and Airtex. The Airtex is 40.00 less (160.00) and comes with a bumper and other parts. Should I just bite the bullet and pray.

Should I assume my fuel pressure regulator is toast (~100.00)?

I'd like to go on the cheap since this vehicle is just for moving materials when I need to (seldom), and in case the other car breaks down and is being repaired, but I don't want to buy a fuel pump that might turn my truck into a miniature Hindenburg. Especially if I'm in it.

So it's between ~80.00 for a cheap pump shipping and a bumper if that's all I need, and ~475.00 if I need a better pump, a new bracket, and a pressure regulator.

So, anyone have any ideas other than suggesting I take a flying leap :D Any information you provide would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks... John.

The brand/cost of pump is the inverse of how easy dropping the tank is repeatedly, this depends on the person and depends on risk. As long as the rivets are not loose they should be fine. Just do it, you seem to know what you're doing and are careful/detailed.I have read posts that swear by factory parts longevity. But your truck is not an ambulance where quality is paramount. Good Luck.