One good way I have found to get your Classic Toyota Celica to stop better, this applies especially to those who have OEM front brakes is to 1) use 1981 Toyota Celica semi-metallic brakes, they fit right in! 2) Peel back the front brake covers for more brake cooling and attach a brake cooling duct to it and point that at your rotor! 3) You can use the turn signal holes for intakes to your brake cooling ducts. I re-wired the white corner lamps to also blink using 1157 bulbs whenever I want to signal a turn. See default album, front shot of '77 to see how car would appear without turn signal lenses in the bumper.

That's a good idea!!!<br>In my 1980 Celica Rally car, I am using an<br>"A" arm from a Cressida, they are longer and it offset the camber in my rally suspension. Anyway,<br>I am also using the rotors from the cressida and<br>they are bigger and better. They have a cooling fin in the middle of the rotor.

Hmmm...sounds interesting! Front brake rotors and calipers from a Cressida? Do these bolt right in? What year Cressida? This is worth checking out! Thanks for the info. Always looking for bolt-in mod possibilities.

Models would be 1980-84, not sure but the newer Cressida has the vented rotor and if you go to the junk yard, might as well use the calipers.<br>It will cost you to get the entire front struts including rotors and caliper for around $25.00-<br>30.00<br>Tip on transmission for 20R engine, you can also use a 1989 truck transmission, it is more heavy duty and bolts right in. For rear end, you can use the rear end (gear and pinion) of an automatic transmission Celica..they are geared better. <br>You can also use the limiterd slip differential from 84 Celica GTS and Not the Supra. When in doubt, bring your old one for a sample or get a receipt for refund.

Are you using stock calipers with the Cressida rotors? I have done an MA60 brake upgrade in my RA29, but I ended up using the struts and brakes and control arms. I'm looking into doing some sort of upgrade for my RA21, I remember some people had used RA29/40 struts in a RA21 before. Anyone care to elaborate on what parts interchange and what happens to the track? I'd like to not have the track increase anymore because of wheel clearance, but I maybe able to take some of it out by moving the whole strut inwards perhaps with camber plates?

I am using the calipers, brake dust plate, rotors,<br>and even the A arm which is longer from the Cressida. My class is restricted and not allowed to use camber plates, having a longer arm compensates for the camber. What kind of racing do you do??? If you need clearance, I might have some ideas for you????

I don't do any racing, I just keep tinkering with cars and keep nickel and diming stuff which I'm getting tired of. I'm going to stop buying cars and try to get them all running! Anyhow I haven't caused the brakes to fade yet, but from what I hear repeated stops can cause the non-vented rotors to overheat a bit. I can definately feel that braking is a little weak just by changing from my stock 165-r14 tires to these 85-87? cressida rims which are 195/50-15 currently. What year cressida stuff are you using and which year celica did it go into? I'm thinking the camber plates and or changing the length of the lower arm I should still be able to tuck the cressida wheel under the fender hopefully. These are currently pseudo/street racecars and I like them low and firm, but I want them to handle right of course. Still thinking I'll try autocrossing soon, but I've been saying that for awhile. I'll be way outclassed due to misc. mods, but that's OK just want to do it for fun and if I'm ever serious I'd build a car around class rules. Currently I had to extend the lower arm on my MA60 strut upgrade to compensate for some positive camber, using camber plates in conjunction to get it back to ~-.5 deg or so. That car (RA29) was riding fine, but it seemed to do some weird stuff over tight turns with bumps, but I'm working on some strut blocks right now. Still I'm trying to get this RA21 down with shortened struts since they are either close to bottoming or are bottoming right now. And I figure I might as well upgrade the brakes if there's something I can throw in there. I wonder if the cressida struts/brakes are real similar to the MA/RA60 stuff?<br><br>mike

I am racing in the SCCA Pro rally and the California rally series with my 1980 Celica GT. The car was originally an automatic and I changed the tranny from an 1989<br>truck which is more heavy duty. My brake system<br>(rotors, calipers,brake dust shield, etc) are from the Cressida. I have a proportioning valve wherein, I can adjust the brake pressure manually inside the car. In rally we usually adjust the front less than the back so, we won't lock up, similar to an ABS. Again, my arms are from the Cressida but I did not use the struts because they are longer and would cause bad camber and handling.<br>For springs, I have TRD rally springs combined with an Illumina adjustable shocks. This works well because, you can adjust how the car handles from over or under steering. Also change your stabilizer bushing to the energy absorbing kind<br>(red in color), you will be surpirsed on the difference in handling. How did you lower your car??? You might have cut the springs to short and messed up the spring rate or play if you are getting bumps or bouncing. You can use coil over kit to have an adjustable height in front to lower or raise the car. I am using a Cusco tower brace and you can use that to help your camber by setting it as tight as you can, what it does is pull the chassis together making it stiffer and flex less. I have a full 8 point cage and what I did is weld the cage to the pillars. The cage and the chassis becomes one and stronger. For steering, I am using an TRD quick steer box.<br>Anyway, you can see my car's pictures in the Photo.

labro, interesting stuff! Rally racing has always interested me, just seems like the car would take quite the beating! So the cressida rotors fit on the celica hubs with no problems? Did they push the wheels out any further? I think that RA40 struts will stick out some on an RA21, but if it's within an inch, I could probably adjust it out by using camber plates and if need be shortening the lower arms assuming I have enough negative camber. I do currently have a set of ground control coilovers in the RA29, RA21 is just cut for now. I really haven't seen that much adverse effects from cutting springs, for sure the spring rate goes up, but combined with the lower center of gravity it seems to me that it ALWAYS handles better cut vs. stock. Of course it would be proper to have it all aligned and I haven't done enough real testing, but seat of the pants I have to think that any mildly cut spring will always perform better than a stock spring. The MA60 struts I have in the RA29 have been shortened and I am using Dodge Colt hatchback strut Koni's that are ~2.5" shorter. I believe someone else was using a VW Golf? shock in theirs and I'm planning on shortening the RA21 struts <br>(maybe using RA40 struts?) with a shorter shock. shox.com has some koni that is 13" long shell. I want to find something that can be stiffer as I'm not sure the Koni reds I have are controlling the 300lb springs up front which really don't seem all that stiff (if it were to be road raced.. maybe about right for autocross..) And the ride isn't bad at all. Oh BTW did you fab the cage or is there one pre-made that fits well? Not sure it would fit the RA29 the same or what, but I will be putting a cage in that sometime I'm sure. Current plan is to swap the 18RG into the RA21 after I get the bodywork done and that will be the full interior vintage type toy and to build an EFI boosted RG to put into the RA29 to make it a little stripped down beastie..a little later after I get some other cars running :P Still I'd like to rebuild the front suspension on my RA21 so it rides nice etcetc..