Ok I've done some searching but still am not fully certain where to begin. I get a CODE 22 and nothing else. It started that I would get this once a week, and restarting the car would set it back to normal. The weather has been somewhat cold/wet, but it hasn't changed a lot since this started happening. Yesterday, it threw CODE 22 again but this time it wasn't so easily reset. It is now permanently throwing CODE 22. Once the code is thrown, the wheels only turn in the SAME direction as the steering input, when I'm stopped. Interestingly enough, if I start the car and start turning the wheels it will turn them opposite of the steering input until the code is thrown (which seems to take 5 or 6 seconds) then the rear wheels seem to stop moving until the steering input has "caught up" and then they just start turning in the same direction again (high-speed mode) So CODE 22 is something about Main Motor being open and less than 2AMPS on the circuit? Where should I begin? Can an old battery cause CODE 22's? How do I test the sensor? Could it be a sensor? Where should I look? Where I live it is not easy to source a new main motor. ST183 - does not have ABS

Update, still only code is 22. Rear-wheels turn IN-PHASE (same direction as steering input) as soon as car is started. REVS 2WS does not have an effect. Put car in reverse, turn wheel, rear-wheels still turn IN-PHASE. Left battery disconnected for 5 mins, but it didn't clear the code (I checked code before restarting) 4WS trouble-light comes on in about 8 seconds after startup with car stationary. Does not matter if I tried to turn the wheel or not. I pulled the 40AMP fuse for 4WS and there was no change in effect... not exactly sure what this fuse does, but didn't seem to do anything. Best I could tell fuse was OK. Battery seems OK, car runs fine and turns over fine. Temperatures have been around -2C to +6C. The battery is a Japanese 332 CCA, which is a little low I suppose, but looks fairly new. Help?

Mine has been doing the same for the last year since I brought it out of storage, haven't got round to pulling the motor yet but I'm fairly sure it's just seized, IIRC there's a bit that needs wound in and out a few times to free it up and hopefully normal service should be restored. If you can go back through the posts from about 3 years ago you should find the details of what needs done. I can't access the historic stuff from work but If I get an hour later I'll try and find the relevant stuff.

Similar problem with mine. Appeared a couple of weeks after buying the car and was a real pain. Fortunately it cleared itself after about a month (the cursing probably had something to do with it!!), and (touch wood), still operating as it should. (Was a problem reverse parking though!). Realise this isn't much help to you guys but...you never know.

the sensor is on the pasanger side front,tucked in behind the brake calliper. its an inductive sensor so gives an ac pulse to the ecu as the wheel rotates. if the sensor is moved from its position it wont read correctly and the e.c.u. throws up the fault code.its easy enough to dislodege this by working in that area with the likes of an impact gun or even a good knock of a pot-hole.even dirt on the face of the sensor could be enough to give an incorrect signal. so give the area a good blast of a water hose and try push the sensor in fully with your thumb,check the condition of the cable and even wiggle it about to see is it a wireing problem. if this doesn't fix it, pull back the plastic lineing of the wheel arch and follow the cable from the sensor to the little plug where you can disconnect it.*(MAKE SURE YOUR ENGINE AND IGNITION ARE OFF WHEN DISCONECTING). use a multi meter set to 2oo ohms and put one probe of the meter onto one of the wire terminals and the other onto the other. *(MAKE SURE YOUR TESTING JUST BETWEEN WHERE YOU BROKE THE CIRCUIT AND THE SENSOR AND NOT........NOT..... FROM WHERE YOU BROKE THE CIRCUIT TO WHERE THE CABLE CARRIES ON TO SOME WHERE ELS IN THE CAR, CAUSE THAT GOES BACK TO THE E.C.U. AND IF YOU PUT A MULTI METER SET TO OHMS ACCROSS A CIRCUIT CONNECTED TO THE E.C.U. THERE IS A GOOD CHANCE OF BLOWING THE E.C.U. you should get a reading of about 90 ohms if so the coil in the sensor is fine. to try the insulation of the sensor turn the meter to a 20 ohms or even lower, the lower the better.check by touching one probe off a good earth (clean bit of the chasis near the sensor) and the other probe off each of the wire terminals. if the reading is I this means the insulation is fine. to check the ac that this sensor is generating set the meter to ac and again a quite low setting. put one prob on one wire and the other on the otherwire. jack the car up on that side and spin the wheel. you couldn't spin it fast enough to use a reference reading but you should be able to see what reading you get fluctuate as the wheel spins. dont remove the sensor to test because once out 99% of the time you wont get it back in without damaging it so if you need to replace it get a new one off toyota . try these things and see how you get on. >

Thanks everyone for the responses so far, I will try these things this weekend.

So, I didn't have a multimeter available but pulled off the front tire and pushed on the sensor. Seemed super tight, like it wasn't moving. Fiddled with the RELAYs up top, managed to get it to throw a second code, CODE 21. Then I put the relays back and everything was back to CODE 22 only. So I took off the motors underneath. This was 10x easier than I expected. Nice to have a low-mileage rust free car. Everything came off really nicely. I didn't have a very good square tool to turn it back and forth, but managed to get a screw driver to work. Worked it back and forth a few times, got it to approximately center. Voila. Codes gone. Haven't taken it for a drive yet, but it's not throwing a code in the driveway anymore and it's turning the wheels properly now. So the guy who said that 99% of problems are resolved by doing that can add this one to the list. Though it's going to take a proper test drive to determine if it is indeed ok or not. I guess my question is, how often do you guys have to do that? Will keep everyone posted (for future reference to the next poor sap with this problem). :)

Nice! great to get a cheap result like that, must do my own now, once i get the damn alternator working again :(

GROAN!! It didn't last long .. took it out for a drive and now it's back on again, permanently like before. It was working fine in the driveway, would turn opposite, etc and no check-light. So it's interesting that turning the motors solved it temporarily. Tells me something must be going on there (I think). Found the multimeter .. so it's time to start testing I guess. The only thing i couldn't find was on the back where you take the two motors off, how do you disconnect the wires? There do not appear to be any plugs? They wires go right in to the cylinders themselves? Do you have to disconnect the motors from the mount underneath the car before you unplug them or am I just not seeing the plugs?