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There are only two screws you have to remove and they are easy to get to. Here are the steps (roughly) to removal:
1) Pull the gauge cluster bezel off. It's held in place by clips. On the right side, the bezel has a tab that is tucked under part of the molding for the radio. This can be tricky to get out but you can also pull out the radio molding piece.
2) remove two philips-head screws on the top of the gauge cluster.
3) Tilt the top of the cluster forward then pull it out.
4) Disconnect single wire harness from back of the cluster
Now comes the tricky part: Everything on the cluster is held together by plastic tabs which you can either pull apart or work open with a flathead screwdriver
5) Pull the front clear plastic cover off of the gauges.
6) Pull the needles off of the gauges. The needles are just friction fit onto the gauge face. Be careful removing them as it is easy to bend the thin platic at the base of the needle. I used two flathead screwdrivers on each side to work the needle loose. A putty knife might work good too.
7) Carefully remove the gauge faces.. its a thin plastic sheet.
8) Pull the white plastic back-cover off of the cluster (lots of tabs). The back of the circuit board should now be exposed
9) Now the circuit board is only being held in place by the two LCD's on the cluster and few more tabs. Try to gradually work tghe board off of the tabs and *very* carefully separate the pins of the LCDs from the circuit board. These pins can be bent very easily.
10) You should how have the circuit board completely issolated. The LEDs are very tiny and are soldered to the surface of the board. If you look at the third picture I posted above, they are located in the white circles drawn on the board. I ended up plugging the board back into the car and turning the headlights on. This caused teh LEDs to light up and I was better able to see which ones where orange and would have to be replaced if I switched colors.
Hope that helps.
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