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> Oil Leak, Oil Leak even after replacing valve cover gaskets
haul_a_lot
post Sep 19 2006, 08:39 AM
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Even after replacing valve cover gaskets and distributor o-ring, car continues to leak oil in that vicinity. I am not sure that my repairman is really eyeballing the leak all that well while up on a lift. Do the passenger seat and body panel have to come out for a good view? What kind of diagnostics can be used so I don't have to keep returning the car while the mechanic tries each option. Thanks for your help.
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kelkat
post Sep 19 2006, 06:51 PM
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Are you being charged while he attempts to "find" the problem? I'm blessed to have one that doesn't charge unless he fixes the problem (except for parts - if there is a good deal of money involved in that).

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Pongo
post Sep 20 2006, 08:16 PM
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If the leak is that high up in the engine....you should be able to pin-point it yourself.

Suggest you go buy an entire bottle of Spray-Nine, and spray down and clean your entire engine. Let it dry for a couple of hours and crawl around the top of your engine a bit.

Run the engine...keep looking. Use a flashlight. Don't give up.
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steveindallas
post Jan 17 2007, 07:59 PM
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QUOTE(haul_a_lot @ Sep 19 2006, 08:39 AM) [snapback]1947[/snapback]

Even after replacing valve cover gaskets and distributor o-ring, car continues to leak oil in that vicinity. I am not sure that my repairman is really eyeballing the leak all that well while up on a lift. Do the passenger seat and body panel have to come out for a good view? What kind of diagnostics can be used so I don't have to keep returning the car while the mechanic tries each option. Thanks for your help.



Did you ever get this problem figured out? I may have a suggestion.
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500kplus
post Apr 10 2007, 10:21 PM
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I have 2 1991's and my mother drives a 1995. All leak there. New seals, and you must take pass seat out, and the 24 total bolts/screws. I change perimeter gasket and spark plug rings about 200k. You have to use extra caulk on left lower corner of perimeter gasket. I use FIPG Toyota seal in a tube. Go to like a Castrol 20w50 oil. It is thicker, and will leak much less, and keep the inside heat down to a minimum while you look at that big windshield and sun magnet.
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vicki2
post Apr 11 2007, 08:01 AM
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Glad to run across this thread as I looked at a car yesterday with some leakage in that area.
It's a cream puff in all other respects but I want a mechanic to look at it before I plunk down money
on it.
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Hardish
post Jun 11 2007, 06:00 PM
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Both of my Previa's had developed the oil leak around the valve cover. I took it to the dealer since they were pretty reasonable. The delaer charged me $90 each for replacing the gasket and the O ring. On the 92 Previa, dealer had to replace it twice since it continued to leak after couple of weeks. Even after the second try, it continues to leak, not enough to make a big difference. You only notice when driving with windows down. You can smell the oil burning when it drops on the hot exhaust. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/banana.gif)
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PreviaMom
post Jul 11 2007, 02:30 PM
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I was glad to find this website. I recently had the valve cover gasket replaced on my 94 Previa. Its' still leaking oil. A small amount, but I'm going back to the mechanic. I first noticed the burnt oil smell, then starting seeing the drips under the passenger side. Is this going to be a constant problem? I love this van and want to keep it a few more years. Other than this it runs great. I keep the oil changed, tune up, brake maintenance, etc..
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500kplus
post Mar 9 2008, 05:03 PM
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When you change the valve cover gasket, you are supposed to use FIPG Toyota sealant. I would load the rear quarter perimeter of the cover, and the 2 one inch long grooves, on the bottom inside with this stuff. That is where they leak.

And, despite the arguement I will inevitably get on this suggestion............Go to 20w50 oil, at least 9 months a year, even for those of us in the north. It will slow the leakage down, be easier on oil useage, and help your a/c out in the warmer months. When you got that big windshield soaking up the sun, and parked yourself on top of the engine block while you are in the front seats, it really helps. I have my second one in the mid 3's and I do have one with over 500k. After a while of driving these things, I tend to draw my own conclusions.

For those of you who want to see the leak....Look under the passenger side, from the ground. You will see the distributor cap up against the outside body, and it will be oily behind it, and to the left is the valve cover, and to the left of that, will be a wire, with a rubber boot, which may not be connected to anything. That is to go to the oil sending unit, which usually rots off. There is a figure 8 gasket, which is behind the oil filter mount brackett, and they leak there, too, sometimes. It looks like 2 "O" rings fused together, and placed in there completely flush.
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ciw
post Apr 17 2008, 01:25 PM
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500 kplus - How difficult was it to change the valve cover gasket? Any special tools required? How much time should I set aside to do the job?
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Teo317
post Apr 19 2009, 03:03 AM
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QUOTE (500kplus @ Apr 10 2007, 11:21 PM) *
I have 2 1991's and my mother drives a 1995. All leak there. New seals, and you must take pass seat out, and the 24 total bolts/screws. I change perimeter gasket and spark plug rings about 200k. You have to use extra caulk on left lower corner of perimeter gasket. I use FIPG Toyota seal in a tube. Go to like a Castrol 20w50 oil. It is thicker, and will leak much less, and keep the inside heat down to a minimum while you look at that big windshield and sun magnet.

LOL
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Enigma
post Aug 29 2009, 01:56 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/gunsmilie.gif) I fiddled with my valve cover for nearly two years before figuring out that the bolts are too long. Apparently the factory gasket is thicker than aftermarket gaskets and the bolts bottom out against the head without pulling the valve cover down tight. A washer under each bolt solved my leak.
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