Please Help! Check Engine Light On and reveals EGR code

1. We pulled and cleaned the EGR valve that was not that carboned and worked.
2. We reset to delete the code and the Check Engine Light is off for now.
3. Observations:
A. The engine’s idle dropped when I added vacuum. Does that mean a good valve?
B. There was no vacuum while cold idling. Was that good and when will vacuum start?
4. If the Check Engine Light On and reveals EGR code comes back, what would you suggest as the
problem?
5. Is there a way to work around the problem to pass State Inspection? Such as, I was told by an
inspector once To turn my lights or AC (to use some energy or etc.) to make a bad reading read
in the passing range.
6. Taking the car to shops is not a problem, if we could get honest consistent answers on procedures
and cost.

Thanks for any help in advance. Jow

Check the answer I posted in the thread above this one. Hy

Thanks! Hy

Some replies inserted in color.

You really should start a new thread with this question. Anyway: 1) Check all the vacuum hoses for cracks and leaks. If the hose fits loosely, it's leaking and needs to be replaced. All hoses are very good. 2) Did you check for carbon build-up inside the opening in which the EGR valve sits? No! I will if the light comes back on. That sometimes happens and needs to be scraped and vacuumed out. 3) Did you replace the mounting gasket after cleaning off the old one from the valve and its seat. That's sometimes forgotten. It was a steel gasket that I steel wooled clean and re-used. 4) Are you sure the EGR valve itself works properly and doesn't have a torn diaphram? How did you test it? I could pull a vacuum on the valve and it would open and hold open. Or! I could push the diaphram to the open position and put my finger over the vacuum hole and the diaphram would hold it's position. If it doubt, replace it; they're not expensive. 5)If all this is OK, then you should have no problem with the check engine light. At what point or condition will the system apply vacuum to the EGR valve? While the engine was cold and at Idle, I could not feel or measure any vacuum with a vacuum gauge. No reputable mechanic is going to tell you how to trick the pollution inspection, which, by the way, is an extremely difficult thing to do with the new testing equipment. The "advice" you were given about how to "beat" the test is, in my opinion, nonsense and will not work. Hy

Hello HY and Others with 1999 Camry EGR experiences to share with a friend. Thanks in advance.



Please share info on a Check Engine Light code that refers to the EGR Valve that we cleaned.

1. Firestone's ball-park estimate is 500.00 (less or more) depending on the 80.00 diagnostic test. He said ,"on that particular model it's usually not the EGR Valve itself vs sensors in the system".

2. Toyota service writer's info: 55.00 - 110.00 for diagnostic then parts and labor w/o giving a ball-park due to variables after diagnostic test.

My opinion at this point and these prices:
1. Do you have a reputable smaller shop that stands behind their work for less?
2. The parts will possibly be less at Firestones.
3. "Post what EGR Valve related sensors could be bad if the valve is not the problem." Post
this on 2-3 Toyota Camry Message Boards and you might save some bucks.
4. At those prices, see how many sensors are involved and replace them first yourself if
they are not over 100.00 total.
5. Research this week and take actions next week vs waiting.

Good Luck!