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> Selt Bealts, Engine, And Headlights, HiAce Lap seat belt questions, and 2.4L Engine questions
ogie
post Jan 16 2008, 09:50 AM
Post #21


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Member No.: 8,550
Drives: 1991 Toyota HIACE 2.8 liter 3L diesel
Location: Canada



Hi Mark,

Yeah you read correctly, I got the van for free. It's in beautiful condition except for the engine. It only has 113000km on it. Your right about getting the rest of the van checked out before I put money into fixing the engine. I will certnainly do that. Do you know where I can source out a used engine for this thing? Quotes I've been given so far run around the $4000 range. That seems pretty high.

Erik
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2rivers
post Jan 16 2008, 10:31 PM
Post #22


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Joined: 24-October 07
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Drives: 1992 Hiace, 1988 Hilux ln65
Location: BC, Canada



Sorry to break the news to you, but if you got a reputable rebuilt engine into that thing for $4K that is an awesome deal. You are in Canada, not Australia, and parts are rare/harder to source, and being a Toyota diesel, thievingly expensive in general. I paid $1000+ for a new head from Australia for my 2L-te powered Prado that had a cracked head - then paid another $600 for frieght/duty. That is just for a bare head, no valves, no cam, just gaskets and genuine Toyota 3L head, add another $2K for labour +misc. Havent looked back since.

There is tons of info out there on cracked heads - look on www.ih8mud.com or www.toyotadiesels.com, mostly they are sad stores on the on the Landcruiser Prados with the 2L-te, but it is basically same engine that you have minus the turbo. A lot of people **** about the 3L head cracking also, but if you dont got coolant in it then any head will crack. Diesels do not like to be overheated!

If it was blowing coolant out the expansion tank and farting /smoking like crazy (before) then the head was cracked likely 99.9% and no new head gasket and skimming gonna fix that!!! What a shame cause you're lookng at big labour just to get back in there and have a look. Strip it back down again, throw the head away (after stripping the valves cam etc) and buy a BRAND NEW TOYOTA 3L WITH THE CORRECT HEAD GASKET - not some shitty aftermarket one. After this is done be 111% positive that your cooling system is up to snuff with NO leaks - this is critical and can be hard to see/catch lots of hoses and connections. Check fan clutch OK, rad is not full of crap, flush system, replace rad cap, thermostat, maybe waterpump etc. Part # 54131 is a 3L head from Toyota, cant remember the first 5 digits off hand. May as well do tbelt while your there. Did the previous owner drive it a lot / hard when it was running badly or just park it - can make a big difference....Toyota Canada can source a lot of these parts for you (as I later found out), you just need to know what to ask for! Do some homework, write down part #'s.

My $0.02 Been there.
good luck!
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ogie
post Jan 17 2008, 03:21 PM
Post #23


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Posts: 11
Joined: 9-January 08
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Drives: 1991 Toyota HIACE 2.8 liter 3L diesel
Location: Canada



Does anyone know if the back seats swivel around in my 91 Hiace? They look like they should but I can't figure out how to make them turn.

ogie

Hey 2rivers,

Thanks for the input. The $4000 I was qoted was just for the engine...not installed. I guess intallation would cost me another $2000. I am now looking into having the original motor entirely rebuilt with a new 3L head. At least that way I'll know what I have when I'm finished. Any idea how much a rebuild will cost me? That's a good tip to triple check that the coolant system is working properly. I'll be sure to do that.
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popoyn
post Jan 18 2008, 01:16 AM
Post #24


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Joined: 13-August 07
Member No.: 6,198
Drives: 1990 hiace super custom
Location: philippines



it seems to me that a bigger exhaust will really improve the mileage and prevent tne engine from overheating. can you please tell me which part of the exhaust system got to be replace? the exhaust pipe, the muffler or both? do you also have to change the exhaust manifold? thanks for your help.

popoyn
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Pard o' Hiace
post Jan 18 2008, 11:44 PM
Post #25


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Joined: 11-April 07
Member No.: 4,609
Drives: 1991 Hiace SCL 3L
Location: Alberta



Well, the bigger exhaust sure helped my bus, but I think it had a restriction in its stock muffler, so I was getting mileage a little worse than others before, now I'm getting as good as anyone I've heard of with an automatic, and that's with a heavy Hiace burning winter diesel at a fairly high altitude. I would say that if you are looking to prevent overheating I would follow 2rivers' advice about the cooling system first. I had to replace my exhaust back of the front pipe (the 18" pipe that comes out of the dump pipe) because of leaks. Doing so, and having a high-flow muffler made a very noticeable difference in power. Later I replaced the front pipe, that made another small difference. Added together, they made a 7-10% difference in power, and more in efficiency. I really have to test again to see if it's right, if I am getting 10 l/100. I think a new manifold would make a difference, but would probably be the most expensive part to change for the amount of good it would do.

I think if you just did from the pipe leading into the muffler, the muffler and the tailpipe, with a high-flow muffler you would get the biggest difference for the least money.

Mark
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popoyn
post Jan 22 2008, 12:23 AM
Post #26


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Drives: 1990 hiace super custom
Location: philippines



thanks a lot for your advice mark. my sc is 17 years old i will not be surprise if the exhaust is very restricted.
i will let you know the result after i replace the pipies and mufflers

popoyn
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Hiace4x4
post Jan 22 2008, 01:04 AM
Post #27


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Drives: 1994 Hiace Jumbo 4X4 2.8L Diesel & 1994 Caldina 2.0L Diesel
Location: New Zealand



Just my 2c worth on transplanting a 1KZ-TE into a van that's had a 3L in it - not a good idea.

The 1KZ-TE has electronic injection - the 3L has mechanical.

There are more wires and cables and control modules and sensors with the 1KZ and you have to get all this
stuff to do a transplant or your engine won't run!

If you have a 3L with a cracked head (and previous posters have already commented on the symptoms) then the best thing to do is pull the head off - find a good head that isn't cracked, get the block tested for flatness, throw a new headgasket on and don't forget that you will need a NEW set of head bolts.

The 3L uses "stretch-to-yield" or "torque once" bolts. That is, they can only be used once - if you pull them out you need to replace with a new set.

With "torque once" bolts, you wind them up (in sequence) to the rated torque, then, if my memory serves me correctly, you tighten 90° more, then 90° again.

NB! I am pretty sure that's the requirement - but PLEASE check the workshop manual before starting!

It feels weird when you are doing it - like they are about to shear off and send you flying through the workshop from the recoil! But it's perfectly Ok.
What it does is it stretches the bolt and puts it in the "elastic" zone - which allows the head some movement

I know all about this procedure as I went right through it when I got my 4x4 van - having been sold to me in an "as is - where is" condition with the head removed etc.

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ogie
post Jan 22 2008, 01:46 PM
Post #28


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Joined: 9-January 08
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Drives: 1991 Toyota HIACE 2.8 liter 3L diesel
Location: Canada



Hey, thanks for your input. I wish it was as easy as just replacing the head. Unfortunately one of the cylinders has been "corrupted". Apparently something got into the engine so it basically needs a full rebuild. I am now looking at obtaining a used motor. Anyone know of a reliable source for used engines?

ogie
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