Hi

I just had to replace the timing belt for my 1997 2.2L Camry. The water pump broke down so bad that it got stuck and the timing belt was broken. So, long story short. A friend came to my house and replace the water pump and the timing belt in 2hrs. The car started just fine and we toke it for a ride around the block and every thing seem to be just fine, so this guy left. Then later I toke the car for ride and just noticed that just when I passed the 3K RPM there was a loud noise coming from the motor. It sounded like when the exaust pipe is broken and your car sounds like a diesel truck, well it sounds just like that. The otherg thing I noticed is that no matter how much I push the gas pedal, the sound just got louder but the car was not getting any power, in fact it just got weaker.

So, any of you guys have any idea what's going on? I haven't had a chance to contact my friend again, so I'm thinking of taking the car to the mechanic but maybe it's something easy (like if the car is out of time or something like that). So, thanks in advance for your imputs.

By the way, I checked the exaust system and it''s allright.


Regards

Follow-up, please. What was wrong with the car? Hy

Water pump broke down badly and got stuck with the timing belt. Had to replace both. But now the car stalls at high RPMs and make wierd noises ... any ideas any one?

Hi,

Just curious about your problem. I have a '99 Camry (4 cyl 5S-ME engine) and recently got the water pump and timing belt replaced at a reputable local garage. For about two weeks, the car was running fine until this weekend. My son was getting on the highway and the car died. He said there was a strong odor of burning rubber under the hood. The car would start (roughly) again but would only run for a few seconds at low RPM's then die. He got the car towed home.

I started it and it ran for a few seconds and then died. I restarted it and tried to give it a little gas - it jumped briefly and there was knocking from the engine and then it died again.

The battery was low so I stopped, pulled the battery and am recharging it now.

I plan on trying to start it a few times tonight so i can listen carefully before calling the mechanic to discuss the problem.

Did you have any luck getting your problem resolved? We may have similar circumstances.

Sounds like the new timing belt jumped a cog which altered the timing between the crankshaft and the valves.
Won't hurt the this engine, though in other brands the head gets trashed. It appears that one of the rotating parts driven by the belt developed enough drag that the belt couldn't keep turning in the proper rotation despite the fact that the belt is "cogged". I had an camshaft oil seal fail (over 200 k) in my I 4 (which is driven by the timing belt) and enough oil got on the belt to make it slip. When the engine stopped I thought the belt had broken but it was still intact, it had simply slipped.

You need to remove the new belt and find out which driven part, water pump, oil pump, left, or right camshaft is dragging. There is also an idler pully in there on which the bearing can fail. Some "aftermarket" water pumps have been known to fail without warning when stil new. I'd check that first.

Also, a new, tight timing or other belt puts more load on an existing part which might just push it over
the edge. Happens a lot with alternators. They start to slip when the belt stretches and
when it is tightened and/or replaced the bearings start making that warning noise. Little known fact is that rubber belts SHRINK as they warm. Slipping anternator and steering pump belts which slip when the engine is cold don't fix themselves, they tighten as they warm but get lose again when they cool. Overtightening a cold belt can cause problems, though so follow the directions.

The belt new belt was not installed according to the index marks and your valve timing is off.
Far enough off and the engine won't run but a cog one way or another will just make it run badly.

I'm sorry man, but timing belts don't strech. Timing CHAINS, yes. Belts get dry and brittle, thats why you replace them. If it snaps and your engine spins freely it can cause major damage to internal components like the valves. You were on the right track with checking the timing. If the timing is off it will make the motor do funny things at high rpm because the valves will not be working in proper "time" with the stroke of the pistons, and your engine can cough and weaze like it has a two pack a day habit. Its easy to accidentally advance or retard the timing while swapping out a timing belt. Sometimes an engine will idle and even gather a few rpm but will quit once you give it a little gas and put it under a load. Double check all of the accesories like the water pump, and the tensioner/idler pulley. Check your spark plugs for fouling too. What conditon are the spark plug wires in? This started out as a timing problem so I'd start there and move to the ignition system.