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> Timing Chain Inspection \ Poss. Change.
guest_12
post Sep 17 2006, 02:26 PM
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Hey there... I was bored today so I started looking over my Runner. Did you know that a 4Runner could run with the sparkplugs gapped at .050 ??? So tomorrow I'll be getting new ones (these were pretty old!), but I did regap them and I think the truck runs better. Anyway, I took the valve cover off to inspect the timing chain and everything else in there. I was told it was easy to look down in there and inspect the rails to see what condition they're in. Well, is there a write up on exactly what I should be looking at? I don't want to just check one thing and miss 4 other more important things. How much slop should there be on the chain on the driver side? I'm not sure if I can see the rails... How far down are they? Is it the passager side rail that's more important? I believe that's what I was told to inspect... Chain and the teeth look real good, but I know that's not saying much... Is there a write up anywhere that gives good details (possible pics) on this? If not, throw me a bone here, and when I'm done I'll write something up for this group. Thanks everyone!
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guest_12
post Sep 17 2006, 09:48 PM
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There really shouldn't be any slop in the chain. I'm assuming you have a 2.4 liter four cylinder engine. There is a telltale noise that give the chain away. Just above idle there is a rattle coming from the engine, it kind of sounds like a loose bolt with a washer rattling on it. If you have this do the chain ASAP. I have done it twice on my Runner (in 220,000 miles) and the second time it cut into the cover and was leaking coolant into the engine. The manual says to remove the head but it is easier if you remove the oil pan and you want to get the broken guide pieces out of there anyway. I bought mine as a kit off EBAY the last time and the guides were steel reinforced instead of plastic like OE
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guest_12
post Sep 17 2006, 10:54 PM
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yep, the 2.4L 4cyl. Sorry, I should have stated that originally. As you look at the front of the engine, on the left side the chain is tight. The tensioner seems to be doing it's job. But you're saying there shouldn't be any slop on the right side either? I'll check in the morning to see just how much movement I have in that part of the chain. Just with the valve cover off and looking down there, can you see (should you see) the guides easily? I don't see anything damaged down there, but I'm not sure if I see the guides either. As for any sounds, I've been listening for it hard since I've bought it and I haven't heard anything. I have my eye on eBay right now for one that I'll bid on tomorrow morning. It's by ENGNBLDR.COM and I've seen their name on several websites that are talking about the 22RE timeing chain issue. And yes, they go with the steel guides. Shannon Rafferty Haines, Alaska 99827 http://www.tdnc.net/wolfden
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guest_12
post Sep 18 2006, 01:07 PM
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UP
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guest_12
post Sep 19 2006, 10:26 AM
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Can the timing chain cover come off without taking the water pump off (meaning can they come off as one unit)? I just put a new water pump on and don't really want to take it off and ruin the gasket. There is the one bolt that goes through the water pump and the timing chain cover so that would come out. Or does the water pump have to come out seperate? I found this link here that's pretty detailed. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/EngineMods/TimingChain.shtml For those who have done this before, are his steps on the mark? Shannon Rafferty Haines, Alaska 99827 http://www.tdnc.net/wolfden
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guest_12
post Sep 19 2006, 08:05 PM
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Gasket set for timing cover should include a new water pump gasket so don't worry about it.
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