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> Too Much Pressure In Cooling System, Overheating, cooling system
FrankI
post Sep 6 2009, 04:18 PM
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[font="Comic Sans MS"][/font][size="2"][/size]I have a 1993 Camry, V6 that overheated and the radiator cracked. I replaced the radiator and thermostat and the engine still overheats. The upper radiator hose is under extreme pressure after driving for about 20 minutes. The pressure is being released into the overflow tank. Please advise! Thank You!
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humanoid
post Sep 6 2009, 04:32 PM
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Did you replace the thermostat? It could be clogged. Make sure to replace it right side up too.
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FrankI
post Sep 7 2009, 03:43 PM
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Thermostat was replaced correctly.
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IvanDrago
post Sep 9 2009, 11:11 AM
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try replacing it again... could work.
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Littlebookworm
post Oct 9 2009, 10:10 PM
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Bring your car to a radiator shop and have them pun a hydrocarbon test on your cooling system. I'm fairly certain you have a blown head gasket which is allowing exhaust gases into your cooling system, causing excessive pressure and overheating. If so, you need to pull the head(s) to find the bad gasket. Be sure to check the heads and block for warpage. Good luck and let us know the final outcome. Hy
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wickware
post Oct 11 2009, 11:45 AM
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I hear and see a lot of experience in these suggestions! Please help with our EGR code problem below or above this post.

Please excuse my method of asknig for Help!

Please Help! Check Engine Light On and reveals EGR code

1. We pulled and cleaned the EGR Valve that was not that carboned and worked.
2. We reset to delete the code and the Check Engine Light is off for now.
3. Observations:
A. The engine’s idle dropped when I added vacuum. Does that mean a good valve?
B. There was no vacuum while cold idling. Was that good and when will vacuum start?
4. If the Check Engine Light On and reveals EGR code comes back, what would you suggest as the
problem?
5. Is there a way to work around the problem to pass State Inspection? Such as, I was told by an
inspector once To turn my lights or AC (to use some energy or etc.) to make a bad reading read
in the passing range.
6. Taking the car to shops is not a problem, if we could get honest consistent answers on procedures
and cost.

Thanks for any help in advance. Jow



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Littlebookworm
post Oct 11 2009, 05:22 PM
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You really should start a new thread with this question. Anyway: 1) Check all the vacuum hoses for cracks and leaks. If the hose fits loosely, it's leaking and needs to be replaced. 2) Did you check for carbon build-up inside the opening in which the EGR valve sits? That sometimes happens and needs to be scraped and vacuumed out. 3) Did you replace the mounting gasket after cleaning off the old one from the valve and its seat. That's sometimes forgotten. 4) Are you sure the EGR valve itself works properly and doesn't have a torn diaphram? How did you test it? If it doubt, replace it; they're not expensive. 5)If all this is OK, then you should have no problem with the check engine light. No reputable mechanic is going to tell you how to trick the pollution inspection, which, by the way, is an extremely difficult thing to do with the new testing equipment. The "advice" you were given about how to "beat" the test is, in my opinion, nonsense and will not work. Hy
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