1999 Camry Solara V6. Approx 80,000 miles. I was considering having the timing belt changed. I checked with several local shops (dealer & independent) & was told that this is NOT an interference engine (i.e. if the belt breaks, the valves will not collide with the pistons. True?

I was quoted from $360 from a local dealer to change just the belt to $600 by an independent shop to do the belt, water pump, idler/tensioner, camshaft seals, crankshaft seal, accessory belts, coolant flush & replacement.

Is the $360 quote just a loss leader to get me in the door? Are all of the items listed for the $600 quote necessary and/or recommended?

we usually do the belt, seals if they are leaking, water pump if it is leaking and accessory belts if they need to be done. Pretty much never do the tensioner. Accessory belts should be done for free since they will be off already so no labor, the seals should be around one hour of labor same for the water pump.

Hope that helps

1. I hope the V6 timing cover comes off easier that on a 1999 4 cyl Camry. I can understand why the dealer wants to do all of the small items while working in the area vs having to go back in a few months later. My daughter had a similar list of quotes related to a timing belt from the dealer. I took your route on the 4 cyl Volvos since the seals, pump and bearings, etc. were not having problems and easily accessed.

2. I was use to popping timing belt inspection covers or the covers to replace belt on 4 cyl Volvos. Should the belt’s inspection cover have come off easy?? But this was not true with the 1999 Camry or 2000. After "hours" I had to stop or I would have had enough time invested to change the belt (which was not needed vs a mechanic saying the belt was cracked/cracking @ 40,000 mi). I could at least pry the inspection cover open with all the bolts out and move it around to see the belt was fine , with no cracks. I feel the mechanic was going on the car's mileage vs knowing the maintenance history.

3. The situation got my attention when they went to a mechanic due to an engine code and was told they needed a belt. It’s an intermitting EGR code. Is it basically trial and error, starting with cleaning and inspecting for vacuum leaks, exhaust carbon bad or sticking parts to solve an EGR code?
Joe

ya, the seals, tensioners, and water pump usually only get replaced if they are going bad, the tech will tell you once they get it all taken it apart, i would suggest getting it done at the toyota dealer, the toyota parts are better and i have seen some independent shops do a hack job when doing t-belts, p.s. replace your drive belts at the same time